Karuppur Kalamarki

Traditional Craftsmanship

Karuppur Kalamkari is fully hand-made. Each piece goes through a long 23-step cycle of coloring, starching, washing, and drying. Artists first make a detailed sketch on paper, then pin and trace it onto pre-starched cloth. They draw the black outline with a bamboo brush, dip the fabric in a starch-and-milk solution, sun-dry it, and wash it in running water. Color is filled with a kalam made from palm and bamboo. The colors come from natural sources—minerals and plant roots, bark, leaves, and stems. After each color is applied, the cloth is washed again. This slow process keeps the art gentle on the fabric and rich in natural color.

Cultural Significance

Karuppur Kalamkari is different from the Andhra styles of Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam. It began in Tamil Nadu, in Karuppur village, with roots in the Chola courts. It rose to fame under Sevappa Nayaka of Thanjavur, when artisans were called to decorate palaces and temples. Designs are inspired by stories from the epics and temple traditions. Historically, these textiles were used for temple hangings, canopies, and door-frame panels, especially during festivals like Panguni Uthiram. The craft received a Geographical Indication (GI) in 2021, recognizing its unique place and tradition.

Modern Relevance

Today, Karuppur Kalamkari is sustained by master artisans and small collectives, many led by women. Workshops keep the full hand-painted, natural-dye process, while also using new fabrics like silk and offering products such as saris, dupattas, stoles, home décor, and stationery so the craft fits today’s markets. Training and school outreach pass skills to new makers. Because the dyes are natural and the process is careful and slow, it aligns with low-waste, sustainable fashion.